I am back in Argentina, spending the last few days here in San Carlos de Bariloche. I spent Christmas in Argentina too, very much south in Ushuaia. We had lots of fun, as it seems that lots of tourists are into partying, whenever a few of them gather in a group. Unfortunately, almost all of them smoke as well. And as I was in a mood for some company, I joined a few people I have met before - in a bus, in a hostel, in the middle of a hiking trail. First, there was a big dinner party at the hostel. It was very nice to see some tourists exchanging a few little gifts with a person they just met a day or two ago. When the dinner ended, a group of us went dancing to a local version of an "Argentinean Rave" in a huge tent across the bay. From the little theoretical knowledge I have of raves, this wasn`t really it, but still fun dancing into the morning and being able to show a move or two to the young local crowd... some as young as 13 or 14. It started getting bright at about 4 AM or so, with the sky getting clearer and mist rising from the bay. All to the sound of a semi-techno-modern disco mix. Then it was time to leave, and we went to find an open place and get a hot chocolate. We did, and took it to the beach, where we sat and discussed the meaning of life while watching the sun rise right in front of us. This was the only day that the sky was crystal-clear, without a single cloud, and seeing the huge ball of light rise across the bay was an unforgettable scene. Then we went to have breakfast...

This has been an ongoing pattern, perhaps because of the long days and lots of light. When I don`t party... which actually is most of the time, I end up reading into the night, and then getting up early because I am not tired. Can`t even remember when was the last time I was in bed asleep before midnight on this trip.

After I finished with the south, with Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego, I made my way back up to the lake district in Chile. And, as I think about my childhood dreams and stories I read about the far south - it feels very different now, because it is now tangible. I have been there, and seen some of the places my childhood heroes galloped through the pampas on their horses, or sailed the straights in their tiny sailboats.

My plan was to put my bike together - we both missed each other - and cycle for the last week and a half of my trip. However... plans change. It happened again, as I was putting the bike together. One little component, about 5 mm long, decided that it had worked hard enough on this trip and is ready to retire. Basically, it broke, effectively bringing the number of gears I have from 27 all the way down to 9. Another meeting with Barney, another executive decision, and the bike went back to its suitcase, while I dusted off my backpacking gear and bought a bus ticket. The key reason - no way I am going to cross the Andes with 9 gears. I know that long time ago, when a bike with 9 gears was considered the most sophisticated machine, people crossed these mountains and more on bikes with a lot less gears... but that was then. Today we are spoiled.

I know that I am on vacation and not supposed to work. But what do you do when someone asks you for some assistance and clarity in their life, business and personal? And she is a nice and attractive woman... :-) . How can one refuse? I couldn´t, and ended up having a great coaching session late at night in Puerto Varas, for which I actually got paid.

Today, in Bariloche, I rented a bike for a day. It was strange to be on an upright bike, as opposed to my comfortable recumbent. I definitely feel it in my "sitting bones." However, as it was a real mountain bike, it negotiated the gravel much easier, and I had a great day cycling and exploring the area.

This is probably the last newsletter from the trip. I only have a few more days here, and then - back home. It feels like I have been travelling for a very long time; it also feels like I haven`t seen my friends for at least as long. I know I am in a shortage of hugs (Vancouver, get ready). I am looking forward for my last few days. I am also looking forward to coming home. It was just the right length of time... whatever it was.