| November
22, 2002 - Crossing the desert... in three parts |
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| Well,
I survived the Chilean desert, and am sitting in the Santiago airport,
waiting for my flight south to the town of Temuco. First, thank
you all who sent me emails, your thoughts and good wishes. They
were all much needed, and they all helped. |
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I decided to leave San Pedro
de Atacama very early, to minimize as much as possible my time
in the sun. Great idea... nice try, Simon. Couldn´t even
sleep very well that night, and left San Pedro at 05:30 AM.
It was still dark, and the full moon was shining beautifully
and magically on the weird and barren landscape. Near San Pedro
there is a valley, The Valley of the Moon. The reason for the
name is that it apparently looks like the moon landscape. I
personally haven´t been to the moon, but can tell you
that pretty much most of the Atacama desert looks like the moon
- flat sand, and hills, and rocks in various formations. And
really nothing else. When I actually looked at it, in between
the cycling struggles, it was beautiful.
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Part 1 was the first 40 km
of the whole distance of about 103 km, between San Pedro and
Calama. And it was pretty much all climb, with one downhill
in between, where I clocked my record speed on this bike - 68
km/hour. Bikes do go fast downhill once heavily loaded. The
rest of it was climbing to an elevation of about 3200 meters,
and it took a long time. Really long - heavy bike, thin air,
steep hills. I eventually made it to the top at 12:00 in the
afternoon. Yes, 6.5 hours for about 40 km, with lots of stops.
This must be my record slow! At first, I was really confused
how come I have to stop and catch my breath every so often (very
often). Somewhere along the road, I finally clued in - this
is called altitude sickness... duhhh...
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Part 2 was a blast, quite
literally. The other side of the summit was a nice and gentle
rolling decline, and even the slight headwind didn´t prevent
me from flying at an average speed of 35 km/hour, and more.
And I thought to myself, "Simon, you will be in Calama
in no time, if this continues." However, that lasted for
about 30 km, and then the Gods of the desert showed up. They
are called the (in)famous Chilean winds. Which brought me to...
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Part 3, where I struggled
with the wind, in my face, which was strong, hot and dry, and
nonstop. Took me about 5 hours to cover the last 35 km,
including walking here and there for a bit. Eventually, I rolled
into Calama at 5:00 PM, being on the road for 11.5 hours. And
finished all the water I took with me, which was 5 bottles of
1.6 liters each, and another one of apple juice.
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Chilean drivers are very
friendly, honking and smiling and waving. Hey, I can understand
- I would be smiling too, if I was driving and looking at some
crazy person on a weird-looking bike, in the middle of literally
nowhere.
While in Calama, I decided
to drop some weight (as some of you have suggested), and sent
two packages of stuff home. Basically, I am now traveling with
just a Swiss army knife and a piano wire; failing to have the
latter, I am using a harmonica instead. I mean, really - does
a person needs more than two pairs of socks for 7 weeks? ;-)
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