November 30, 2002 - I fell in love in Pucon and left my heart there
 
There I was, at the bus station of Pucon, waiting for a bus to go to Termas San Luis (hot springs) when suddenly she approached me. Just like that. Brown and white hair, brown eyes, undetermined age (younger than me, but not by too much). Approached and moved in close, without saying a word. Soft, quiet yet playful, loving and trusting. Just looked into my eyes, and I melted. She sat beside me, close and cuddling, and time stopped. How long it lasted? I don`t know... but, eventually, the bus arrived, and I had to leave.

I REALLY wanted to take her with me... but I am cycling, and traveling, and don`t know where am I going next... and so how would I fit a dog into it all?

The hot springs were great, and I had them all pretty much all to myself. It was a good day to relax, and prepare myself for the following day, when I was going to climb and conquer the Villarica Volcano, at elevation of about 3500 meters, give or take.

 

There was a whole group of us, with guides, and lots of gear I have never used before - big and heavy plastic snow shoes, cramp-ons, ice-ax (if this is the correct name), and lots of clothes (OK, I did use lots of clothes before...). Anyway, by the time we arrived to the volcano and put all our gear on, I felt like a very serious and professional mountain climber.

 

And so, up we went. The first 1000 meters were very easy, since most of us chose to use the ski lift. Then we had a brief lesson on how to use the gear and what to do if you start sliding down the mountain. Basically, stick something - anything - into the snow and hope it will hold. And then we started walking up, zigzaging our way in a single line, one step after another. The wind was strong, and as we climbed higher and higher, the wind increased. It felt like the mountain doesn`t want to be conquered today. Some people decided they had enough and went back. We made a stop halfway up, in a man-made shelter, hoping the wind will subside. Nice try. A few more groups decided to go back; some of us continued further up. It was getting difficult to walk against the wind, even when covered pretty much completely and leaning fully into the mountain. Several times I stopped and looked at the view, which was simply breath-taking. Seeing the lakes, the mountains around, the clouds below - almost like flying. The top of the world. Eventually, at elevation of about 2800 meters our guide decided that this is not going to be the day to do it. Safety first, unhappy tourists later... After a bit of arguing, we gave in, and returned to safer ground. And, as I left the area the next day, the mountain was left unconquered... until the next time, or the next person.

 

Then I started cycling south, navigating my way among the many lakes of the area. No wonder it is a major vacation destination, both for the tourists and the locals. Lake upon lake, with mountains and little villages, lush green, beautiful and peaceful scenery. From Villarica via Lical Ray to Conarica to Pugnipulli, I eventually made my way to Valdivia, which is a bigger town, almost on the coast of Chile. It is a university town, located on a riverbank, and I will probably stay here for a couple of days, finalizing my plans for the next step in my journey.

 

As I am cycling, I am thinking that I can probably enter the Guiness World Book of Records - judging by the reaction of people I meet, or just pass by, I don`t think anyone else has ever been in Chile with a recumbent bicycle. Not to mention a folding one. Probably nobody has been that crazy to bring one over... . "Mira, mira" is what I hear all the time, mostly from children, but at times from adults of all ages. "Look, look" at this strange thing on wheels. The good things is that some people do recognize my Barney, so I don`t feel like I am completely from a different planet.

 

Oh, yeah... forgot to send this one earlier. In a non-English speaking hotel in Temuco, there was an interesting sign in the room. Here it is: "Fleeting mister, We request to you the delivery of their room before the 12 hours of the day of their exit, since we otherwise will collect a new day of hotel. If their retirement is made this in the dawn of the following day he/she/it/you will remain cancelled the previous night." Might have been one of the Internet-based language translators at work... and, as I left after only one night and paid on time, at least I wasn't "cancelled."

 
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